Marion's 50 Walk Challenge

Walking by myself again today as yesterday wasn’t a suitable walking day. A mooch around Salcombe, a ferry ride and then a walk for a couple of Kilometres to Sunny Bay. Lived up to it’s name and caused sun burn on my legs and a dip in the sea. Safer to stick to walking today!

Parked at Bantham, which cost £9.50 and had been updated to be a contactless card reader taped to a stick which could be offered towards each car. Life will never be the same again after this pandemic!

This is not my favourite beach, good sand but too many people! It does however offer paddle boards (SUPs) which was what was required. Not by me I hasten to add. So having parked I left the other four to head for the beach whilst I headed for the coastal footpath. This starts with a steady climb up to the more open head land and continues towards Warren Point.

Reflection – the first time I walked up here was in February sunshine, 6 months pregnant with my oldest son!

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Looking back Burgh Island can be seen, this is accessible by a causeway at low tide and has an amphibious vehicle to transport people as the tide comes in. A 1930’s hotel predominates – quite a special little place. Looking the other way my destination of Hope Cove can be seen.

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The path runs along the side of a golf course and at certain points asks you to wait if you see people about to tee off.This does rather suggest that everyone would recognise such an event! This is quite a busy stretch.

I’m struck by the increased number of people with dogs- is this because of COVID or am I just more aware? I did hesitate at one point along the path as there were golfers in a rather ominous position but a largish group were coming the opposite way, so safety in numbers, I decided to proceed!

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There are various beaches along this next stretch including Thurlestone and South Milton, none of which were very busy.

After another stretch up hill the ‘Great Ledge’ is reached and the path goes steeply down into Outer Hope.

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This village is always busy with queues for ice creams and places in the pub. Lots of holiday let cottages and a large dingy park at Inner Hope which is just round the corner.

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Managed to get an ice cream from a smaller local company – with no queue! Bit strange it had the biscuits that you often get given with coffee mixed in it – okay but will stick to ginger next time!

The return walk took the same route, so different views. The first,where I had stopped to eat on the way out.

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Behind South Milton beach is a nature reserve and the view of Highland cattle and birds nestling behind the car park struck me as a complete contrast.

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The path crosses the small river inlet by a long wooden bridge. Having suggested that the cyclist behind me might like to overtake he declined and we chatted about the price of housing and locals not being able to buy, the government, billionaires, the Mullet he had caught the previous night and several other subjects for about twenty minutes or more whilst he pushed his bike. An unexpected interlude – I like random occurrences like this.

The rest of the walk was uneventful until I emerged onto the open hill above Bantham only to find the cyclist on his phone.

He said hello and told me he had just been verbally attacked by ‘some posh people’ who said he shouldn’t have his bike on the coastal path! He assured me he had been pushing it at the time and whilst he didn’t live round here anymore the fact that he was born and grew up here had to give him some credibility!

I dropped down to the beach and walked through the hoards to find the others. After another unsuccessful game of boule I retired to use the facilities in the car park and read my book in the car.

A successful 12km walk today. BUT my walking boots have died. Good job I’ve always adhered to my Girl Guide motto of be prepared and had a pair of substantial trainers with me as an extra – just in case!

This was a rather unintended walk but one that arose out of necessity. The day started a little strangely with the main road to Salcombe being closed and having to drive to Soar Mill Cove by a rather circuitous route.

When we arrived at the hotel which is situated at the top of the steep path down to the cove we found that the car park which I had always used before was now only for hotel staff. So … off to the NT parking at East Soar. Our destination was sign posted as being 1.5 miles away so it seemed foolish to miss the opportunity!

The path led across fields by Middle Soar and then we had the choice of carrying on to the coastal path or turning right across the top of the hill – ‘The Warren’. The mizzle turned to drizzle but it might just have been sea mist!

Our next incident was a very steep hill down towards the cove – we noted later that nobody else arrived at the beach by this particular route!

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The tide was quite high when we arrived but a bit of bat and ball was the first game. The tide did go out slowly revealing more beach.Cricket, boules, and then running races, instigated by Alex! Then long jump!! I did not participate.

This is one of my favourite beaches and in the sunshine would rival any of the top continental venues. Sadly today the rain returned a couple of times but Jack managed some rock climbing and Pete ventured into the sea.

We decided not to return up the very steep hill but go by the path near the cliff. This was a great walk and we managed to get most of the way without another shower.

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This walk was 5.5 km so just counted, and as we all did it together, well almost – Jack is a very fast walker like his dad, it seemed worthy of being number 21.

Today’s walk was planned! It did involve a beach very near the end- you could perhaps consider it a rather prolonged lunch break!

We parked at the car park on Start point and started by walking down to the light house.

The view across the bay is quite special as Start Bay was where the D Day manoeuvres where rehearsed.

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The lighthouse proved to be a popular photo spot!

Having doubled back up the hill it was time to take a left hand fork and start walking around the cliff path to what would be the beach destination.

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This is a great part of the coastal path and we were lucky enough to see seals playing when we stopped, overlooking some rock outcrops. No photographic evidence- combination of me being too slow and them moving too quickly. Great to watch.

When we (Alex and Pete, Jack and Franky plus myself) got to the path down to the bay – Great Mattiscombe Sands, I left the others to continue down to the beach whilst I kept going on the coast path.

My destination was the next bay – Lannacombe. After a while Alex ran to catch up with me and we both continued, had a drink at the beach before returning. As we approached we could see down to the beach where the others were already settled.

The nearest cove is not reachable until the tide goes out and then a tunnel way through the rocks appears and it is even possible to find a third cove.

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Seaweed art – what a range of colours and this also shows up the fine pebble/ coarse sand nature of this beach.

I have always been fascinated by this rock. How did it get there and why? The waves splashing round it are always mesmerising.

Time to finish the day after sea bathing by some and more boules competitions. Needless to say I’ve never been the winner. The climb up from the beach is steep and then there is a further very long upwards climb back to the car park.

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Reflection – Alex reminded us of the time the collie dog from the farm came to join us and stayed the day!

Further reflection – memories of Alex with his dad sitting on top of a rock doing watercolours together. Also that it is great that they want to share places from childhood memories with their partners.

This walk was just over 10km plus the walk of just over 1 km, uphill, back to the car park. Not very warm but it didn’t rain!

In Devon – South Hams, a place visited many times as the children were growing up. Never tire of returning to some of these wonderful beaches, nearly all of which require a walk to reach them.

So having arrived at our holiday destination- a very nice converted barn , near Frogmore, a quick escape was made to the beach.

Pete kindly drove Alex and myself here and we met Jack and Franky at the barn. It should have been a straightforward drive to Gara Rock beach! But oh no, a few wrong turns, very narrow lanes with high hedge and grass down the middle plus people with large cars and those that need an oversized gap before they pass.

So knowing there was a good walk from where we had to park the car I left the four young people to go straight to the beach whilst I set off.

The track went across fields and then a continuous downward slope through some woods, veering north west towards Mill Bay NT car park, just south of East Portlemouth.

The path emerges and bears round to the left onto the SW Coastal path and glimpses of Salcombe across the harbour are soon available.

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The path undulates as coastal paths are prone to do and I’m immediately struck by the enormous difference to Orkney. Here there is woodland and the path is closer to the edge plus sounds of voices as, people are enjoying themselves on the sandy stretches below.

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Reflection- I remember scrambling down to one of these sunny coves with the boys and their dad plus his parents. One time the sandbank was exposed as it is today and the day was talked about for a long time afterwards.

This is a late afternoon walk and the sunlight is wonderful. Long shadows on the sandy soil in front of me, images of ferns and also of butterflies. Moving shadows – rather special.

An abundance of flowers also bring a special joy and I’m caused to acknowledge the intensity of colour between the gorse and the heather.

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As the path rounds the point and starts going south east I’m reminded that coastal walking is not an easy option and that I’m not quite as flexible yet as I would hope to be. A few very tricky boulders and rock slabs, which had me scrambling and not wishing to think about the consequences of a slip!

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The cliffs are much more extreme here, with some steep drops as well as rocks on the non sea side of the path at some points. Eventually I rounded the corner with the bay almost looming and could start my steep descent to the beach.

I only paddled unlike the rest of my group! The walk back up from the beach is a quite steep never ending hill !

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New type of app hiccup – forgetting to turn it off when you put your bag in the boot of the car!! Hence the slight extra spur! A credible 6 km!

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A great first walk in Devon.

Today’s walk started at Rye Farm car park in Abingdon and started by walking along the River Thames towards the lock. I haven’t been here for a while and it was good to see people busy on the river. I continued past the lock until I found a good lunch spot.

The lock used to be a more familiar place when I lived in Abingdon. Doesn’t seem possible how long it is since I moved to this area from Sussex.

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The route continues along the river and takes a sharp turn parallel to the railway line. I was just wondering how much further this was when two trains rather surprised me the other side of the hedge!

This path is next to a motocross site and also where I went several times for cross country races with Alex – the course was renowned for its hills.

Another turn almost parallel to the river and along Thame Lane. Now this is a blast from the past. 50 years ago this summer I had to learn to ride a bicycle by cycling along the lane. I was about to start my second teaching practice in the September. It was to last for four weeks, two of which were based at Charlbury Youth Hostel and involved cycling to various places with about 15 children. A great experience – we travelled there in a cattle truck or removal van ! Now that wouldn’t happen now.

After a while the European School can be found – this used to be Culham College and where I trained.

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It’s strange when walking by yourself, it gives opportunity to reflect and remember and things like a train hooting or the app talking can make you jump!

The app telling you how far you have gone and at what pace can be quite motivating and when you don’t hear it you suddenly realise you’ve forgotten to turn it back on after lunch !!!

The lane meets the main road, which I crossed to go by Culham cut and lock. Lots of great plants here and all along the river- Rosebay willow herb, Bull rushes, Himalayan balsam and many more including water lilies.

A stretch of river which brought back memories of walking with school groups from Thameside, when I was a deputy head

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As the river approaches Abingdon there are views of the Marina, the rowing club and a pub that used to be a favourite Friday afternoon drinking spot when I taught in south Abingdon. Also the Malthouse which used to be a hall of residence for the college. Also some memories of the church with the guide company.

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Abingdon used to be the county town of Berkshire until the borders changed on 1st April 1974. The old gaol was also the county facility, later a leisure and sports facility and now Luxury serviced apartments!

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In January 1974 I bought my first house in Abingdon- three couples all friends from college bought somewhere to live – ours was the only house and the most expensive, an Edwardian terrace for the grand price of £8,500. Doesn’t seem possible, how crazy.

About 10.5 km today and some rain half way round. A completely new route again.

A shorter walk today for several reasons. Slightly achy left hip, wanted to take advantage of the drive to Blewbury and I had another appointment at 11 am. All the above concentrated the mind and I set off from the car park by Blewbury recreation ground at just gone 9 am. Quite warm but with a stiff breeze.

The first part of the walk took me up the track which starts opposite Westbrook Street and up the chalk escarpment and past the ‘chalk pits’ – famous for egg rolling and many gatherings!

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Reflection- I’d been down this way with children many times, after Pilgrimage Services to Churn Knob. We used to meet there as St. Birinus preached in 635 in a bid to convert the people of Wessex to Christianity. The last time I had been on this path was with a class when we were spotting the solar eclipse and then some chalk flora. I remember it being very eerie as the sun ‘disappeared’.

I was now on new territory as I continued upwards on a very straight track towards Churn Farm, which includes an extensive stable area.

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The route turned back on itself before reaching the middle of paths at the top of the downs which create so much confusion when trying to follow the Ridgeway at this point. I’m now on a very straight track heading towards Upton. Quite a few sky larks out today and of course the rather persistent cry of the ‘Red Kite’.

There are ripe crops in every direction and I should be happy that the solitude of my walk was not disturbed by combine harvesters.

Today I didn’t want to go to Upton so needed to look out for a cross roads of paths and a turning right, back down to Blewbury. Before I turned I passed a whole field of cultivated poppies, with just a few of the wild variety daring to mingle!

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As I headed towards Blewbury I became very aware of Blewburton Hill which dominated the view. An Iron Age Hillfort which was occupied between about the 4th to the 1st century BC.

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The most difficult part of the walk was coming out on to the main road and having to dodge on to the narrow verge every time a vehicle came along.

So the walk was about 6.75 km, slightly further than on the app – yes I forgot to turn it on again but luckily, only for about 1/200 metres! This was a good walk which could have had many additions.

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Setting off from the house again but this time heading west and planning a longer route today. The weather has started off a little overcast but gradually got hotter. I keep forgetting the sun tan cream and glasses!

Having walked round the edge of town the first section was the path that leads across to Letcombe Regis another pretty village with an array of thatch.

Reflection – the last time I walked along this path – in the opposite direction – it was to return from a New Year’s Eve meal at the Greyhound, 2019/20. I was using walk poles to aid my endeavour and had a promise of a bed, if needed, so I didn’t have to get all the way home. what a difference – my walking app tells me I’m walking at quite a credible pace!

On reaching the village I turned right and had to walk along the road and up hill until I reached the main road by East Challow – across and up the track. This comes out by the school.

I remember when the Stockham football team played there and the ball often used to go over the fence – more than 30 years ago. Think it might have been there that we had hail during one of the games and the stones went down the sides of my wellingtons!

Next a turn left along the path to Childrey – bit of a tick off villages tour today !

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Took the path right into Childrey and had to check out the route to the village pond. The pond area was a haven of sparrows and dragonflies and a useful bench for a very late lunch.

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A bit of bad map reading led me to a cul de sac by the disused chapel and then I found the track that led to the corner of West Challow with it’s quaint but quite tiny village hall. After walking through the village I headed down the path beside the old Wilts and Berks Canal.

The canal has been partially cleared but is not navigable. A peaceful walk along this path and arrived at the bottom of East Challow village.

After a cup of tea and a ‘comfort break’ at my in-law’s, I rejoined the canal path. Noticed one creaking tree which was peppered with woodpecker holes and moved on quickly. There is a huge new estate out the back of Stockham Park. A rather special part of Wantage having spent just over 9 years of my career teaching here.

Lots of little paths today – the next through Belmont and had a chat with an old work colleague and then along past Wessex Mill – which couldn’t keep up supply when everybody suddenly made bread in the first lock down.

Back home by a rather circuitous route and clocked up just over 15 km (9 miles). I was pleased with the pace but did underestimate how warm it would get!

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Back to walking from my house again today. It took a long time for my equilibrium to return after the journey back from Orkney. Sleeping on a boat and then nearly 12 hours on trains took it’s toll.

Having started, this walk ended up longer than anticipated, 12km in total. Taking a map only seemed to encourage me to go further!

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It was noticeable how much more advanced the crops were compared to Orkney.

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This walk swapped sea birds and cliffs for thatched cottages and cow parsley. Hardly anybody around all the way to West Hendred. I’d almost forgotten how far through the village the church was. I’ve always thought that this was a rather beautiful spot. I first came across it many years ago when I took my Girl Guide company from Abingdon for a weekend camp at Ardington and we then walked to this church on the Sunday and had an outdoor ‘Guides Own’ in the next door paddock. A wonderful place for reflection and appreciation.

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Not wanting to take the easy way back I ventured along Ginge Brook – a very definite path but not so sure it’s all a public right of way.

Brooks are quite special as they only arise from Chalk escarpment springs. It didn’t disappoint and included climbing over a large tree trunk and at one point scrambling underneath one – unfortunately the new hips haven’t yet facilitated as much flexibility as was needed for that one – and the short legs don’t help!!

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It is a wonderful meandering brook with several ox bow bends and some very steep banks. Perhaps it’s a good thing that I didn’t quite know where the boys came to play when they were younger!

Had to escape to a field side path before meeting the new bridge over the brook which I think is intended as access for cyclists through to East Hendred and on to the Harrell site. Probably a good call as the usual path down and up was always very muddy. Usually a vegetation grabbing ascent and descent.

I could have taken an easy, much shorter route back to Lockinge Church but decided to head for Ginge on the path that is above and parallel to the brook. I foolishly thought this might be quite well used but although it was well defined it was pretty narrow and yes stinging nettles are not stopped by fleeces!

Eventually coming out on the road the route was downhill to Lockinge Church and on familiar territory back round past the stables to my track and home. A little tired but glad that I’d made the most of a sunny evening after a slow start to the day.



We started the day with a visit to ‘The Italian Chapel’ – a rather special place. Created by prisoners of war, during World War 2, from two Nissan huts. All the decor and ornate facade was developed by the captured Italian’s , some of whom were craftsmen back home. It’s situated on a tiny island linked to the mainland by one of the Churchill barriers which was formed as a defence during the war and was also also built by the Italians.

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Highlight and reflection – standing by the Italian Chapel and looking out over Scapa Flow it was strange to think that my Grandpa, Charles Frederick McCulloch, was station here just over 100 years ago. He was a Chief Petty Officer in the Navy and spent time there both during the battle of Jutland and in 1919 when the German fleet was captured and held there. As a child he showed me photos he had taken of the fleet and then the next morning when the German commanding officer had order for the fleet to be scuppered and there was nothing there! Handing over his ships to the British and French was obviously an ask too much.

To start our walk proper we drove to Deerness on the easterly point of the Mainland Isle. This was quite a different environment and as we set off there was some trepidation with the weather – much windier than on other days – partly due to the exposed locality.

Our first stop was at the Gloop, an inlet surrounded by steep cliffs – quiet today but could easily be a site of turbulence.

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Again wonderful craggy cliffs with their array of colours and sea birds flying in and out to feed still hungry chicks. Balls of fluffy Fulmer chicks were easy to spot.

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Leaving cultivated fields behind there was soon a change to moorland with the now familiar ‘Bell Heather’, Ling- Calluna vulgaris and the slightly pinker crossleaved heath.

We came a cross a sheltered bay where Vikings had once landed but unfortunately couldn’t visit the tiny chapel or mound shaped remains from their community as the narrow path had been shut due to a landslide.

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More sea birds and chicks and a wonderful sunny spot for lunch with springy cushions supplied just where we wanted to sit! It was hard to believe our luck with the weather.

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After lunch we had a brisk walk to a large monument which was erected to commemorate some Scottish Covenanters. These were Protestants at the time of Charles 1 -their beliefs and practises did not fit with the requirements of the day.

Firstly after arrest they were kept in jail in Edinburgh, the decision was then made to ship them to America for penal servitude. Unluckily there ship was wrecked off this edge of Orkney – little was done to save them. Those that did survive were recaptured and taken to Jamaica as slaves.

Reflection – we are so lucky to be able to have freedom to walk in such wonderful places and to hold our beliefs, mostly without persecution.

Reflection – look at the amazing structure of this wild Angelica.

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Final walk on Orkney -about 12 km today. Thank you to Lynn, Bill, Anne, Donald, Caroline and Simon for your company whilst walking. To Nigel our leader and to Sue who missed most of the walks as she needs a hip replacement – I feel your pain. Good luck.

Today we needed to travel back to Stormness to catch the ferry to Hoy. Hoy means ‘high island’ – and it does indeed look very mountainous compared with the other islands. We arrived at Moaness.

After a short drive we arrived near the Dwarfe Stane, which is a 5000 year old Neolithic stone cut tomb carved from a huge sandstone erratic boulder. This was the first part of today’s walk.

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A short drive to Rackwick and then set off round the coast towards ‘The old man of Hoy’ which is a 137m high sea stack. This was a great path with an ascent across the side of a high hill whilst having views out to sea. Quite rocky so some careful footwork needed.

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This was our only non circular walk as we had to return along the same path. Quite a busy highway and great to see so many families out and about. Having been unsure of the weather it turned out to be a warm sunny day.

On returning to the village it was time for a trip to the bay. With steep cliffs on both sides the stand out features were very soft fine sand and spectacular large, smooth, sandstone pebbles.

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The walk today was about 13 km plus the short walk to the Neolithic tomb which added in another 2km.

Highlight – seeing the iconic ‘Old Man of Hoy’.