So back to Abingdon to start our day. We haven’t been able to have lifts to and from Millets Farm today as SPR are double booked. We are walking to Wallingford and I’m hoping my homework will work out! I certainly haven’t done this entire stretch in one go but have completed several sections.
Having parked at Rye Farm we crossed the first part of the bridge and went down the steps to meet the path which continues under the bridge and through the meadow which is opposite the ‘Old Gaol’ and the warehouses and Malthouse. Travelling the length of the river is making me consider it’s historic importance for the transportation of goods. A glance back at the bridge!

And a walk forward towards the church.

Always somebody busily attending to a boat along this stretch. It’s only about 8.30 so not much movement in the river yet. Three of us again today, Fiona, Richard and myself. Impressed by these fungi on the river bank .

As the river bends around leaving Abingdon behind we are aware of a Marina and park on the other side but quite difficult to actually locate. Fiona is telling Richard about various local walks he could do. We spot our first swans of the day, looking very serene and then almost at the same time two fly over making a tremendous noise with both their wings and their calls.


We are approaching Culham Cut and the lock and there is a wooden bridge similar to those we’ve seen earlier in this journey. This path leads over to Sutton Courtenay and I have been over it with groups of children and when I lead a family walk from South Abingdon- and now I think back most probably with my guide unit when going on an evening hike! Urged by Fiona we climb on to it to look at the view!

Nothing particularly spectacular on the next section but we do go under the railway line just a bit down from the previous day and we can spot Appleford Church spire and the buildings associated with the large science research area at Culham. Further on we come to Clifton Lock which certainly has won the prize so far for the best cared for lock area- ‘prize’ dahlias and wonderful splashes of colour. Also an advert for ice creams but we jointly decided it is a bit early in the day!


A little further round the corner and it’s possible to see the wonderful bridge at Clifton Hampden and the church spire which predominates – bit of a cheat really as it is up on a hill which makes it look more impressive. As we reach the road we have to walk across the bridge and our path continues on the other bank. No changing of counties today – firmly in Oxfordshire – all once Berkshire pre 1st April 1974.

We decided to stop shortly after crossing the bridge and have a snack break. Good choice of spot as I and then the others saw the long flight of a kingfisher go right across the river diagonally – very special. Just as we were about to leave we saw another interesting sight – wild water swimmers – with brightly coloured buoyancy aids – I’d only heard something on the radio about this idea , a few days previously. No wet suits – no desire to try this sport!

A bit further along we saw a dark coloured bird flying along the river – very like a cormorant but that didn’t seem right! We had spotted several herons and then one was walking on the path in front of us. We crept along so as not to disturb it and then it found a gap in the growth beside the river and took off in their slightly heavy looking initial flight- big birds.
Another huge loop round, it’s almost as if we are completing a circle with the bottom open, omega like. Somewhat disorientating, Wittenham clumps in our sights and then Dorchester Abbey. In consolation we have seen a Buzzard, Red Kite and a Kestrel during this section and there are some beautiful parts to the river, our lunch break view!

In the flood plain area of this huge circle the Earth Trust, based at Little Wittenham have dug some new ponds/ water ways to provide wet land areas and it was pleasing to see that one at least was already proving a welcome habitat.

Bit of a phone failure at this point, not sure what happened, trying to look up geese species and then nothing – oh well at least the path is well signposted and the bit by the river is obvious!!!
We eventual find our way round to Day’s Lock at Little Wittenham and cross over the weir. Just before that there are heavy machines moving steel girders apparently replacing a bridge – not aware there ever had been one !
We know that the next stage will involve us eventually going up on to the road. The ground to our left is very rough grass, but with occasional views over to Dorchester and on our right Wittenham Woods- good walks through there. So we are now out onto the busy road, luckily with a path on the far side. Not an easy one to cross, we are heading for Shillingford Bridge we turn back down a side road and into what looked like a once very important and rich part of this small village. Reference to wharf’s again and a track that led directly to the river. Quite concerning to see the flood markets on the wall, remarkably high. We are signed through a little passage way between the backs of houses before we cross the road leading to the bridge and are back beside the river.
The river is going ESE and then bends almost due south before bearing a little to the west. We have been remarkably lucky with the weather as it’s warm again – tee shirt weather after the initial early morning chill. We come to Benson Boatyard which also has holiday homes, lots of boats moored and a very good cafe. After some debate we decide it is more prudent to wait until Wallingford as there is only one bus per hour for our return to Abingdon.
We are aware of the Hydraulics institute on our left and the site of Wallingford Castle on our right as we complete this last section for the day. We emerge into the edge of the town and as we approach the square we spot the signpost which we will need the next day to set off on the next step of our journey.
First to check that the bus I’m hoping we can catch is a reality and pleased to see a timetable for the X33 and at the time I had expected. So next a tea and loo, take away so we could finish drinking it on the bus so that we could wend our way back to Abingdon. About 23 km today.
