So having returned to New Bridge in the morning and returned Andreas to his group we set off again along the river – our target for today was Oxford. Not quite as far as the day before but still a long way to go. We are back on the north bank and there are quite a few fields with herds of cattle, a variety of breeds but quite a lot of rich tan brown colour, certainly looking in very good condition. We did help one father and son be brave enough to walk through them. Not sure how they got back again!
Cattle don’t worry me too much, I’m not complacent and I try not to get between cows and calves. suddenly remembered when I worked on a farm the summer before college and I had to move some young cattle down a road and into another field. The farmer had great faith in my capabilities!
So a few more boats, some moored up and just beginning to rise. We did set off quite early, 08.13 to be exact! Quite nice and cool to start our day and we made good progress. Our direction is quite different today as we are turning north east and then back down again to Oxford.
There are some very interesting extended back gardens coining down to the river. We look at the map to work out where they are, quite a long way from Appleton village but that is probably their address. We also note that there could be some good walks in that direction – there is one footbridge over the river and Fiona thinks she may have used it in the past. We soon reach our first lock – Northmoor.
Next significant place is Bablock Hythe a large pub which many years ago had a ferry across the river. It was a chain ferry, a flat bottomed boar with a chain which the boatman pulled the vessel across. Sadly not there anymore. I had walked down to the river from Cumnor and walked on the other bank last summer. Beyond the pub is a large caravan park and the path is forced to go round this.
Whilst we are contemplating the old crossing area our German group appears and I think they’re rather hoping the pub might be open.
So a section along a road and beside and around the caravan park, many of these are residential. This is a very extensive detour as we have to go further down a lane and across several fields before cutting back to the river. We are missing our companion! A farmer drives through trying to ensure his sheep have sufficient water, again very little to eat.
When we catch up with the river we are very aware that close to the opposite bank is Farmoor Reservoir, it seems strange that it is hidden away behind the bushes. The river does look good at this point.
The river doesn’t seem to be flowing so fast today. Yesterday we had seen several paddle boarders and at one point they were moving very fast , carried along by both the flow and the wind. Today we had seen more canoeists, in fact we had met two at the first lock where they had been finishing their breakfast and taking down their tent.
The river has some big meanders and the reservoir, a large egg shaped body of water fits within its curve. We are soon at Pinkhill Lock , somewhere it’s almost impossible to reach unless you are on water or foot. We meet our canoeists again, they have just lifted their canoes out of the water and we have stopped for a snack. They explain with the low level of water in the Thames that they are not allowed through the locks unless there are other boats.
We offer to help, with first boat I held a gate and with the second I took my turn carrying along the length of the lock. They still had to get them back into the water, but obviously that went well as they overtook us further along!
The lock is near the top end of the reservoir and the path soon diverts to the Oxford Road – linking the southern end of Oxford with Eynsham and crossing a toll bridge – we’re not quite there yet. Having walked beside the road for a short stretch – very strange after the tranquility – we turn back towards the river and through a boat yard, which also advertises a nail bar – well actually a container converted for the purpose. Very enterprising but not sure it would be my place of choice!
So at the lock we changed banks again and we are now on the lower side – bit strange as we are travelling in a northerly direction so we are actually on the east bank! Really tight wriggles so we all agree that a straight line is the obvious action! Then we spy the bridge, been over this quite a few times through the years, built around 1770 it is still a Toll bridge, 5 or 10p a journey – not sure how you pay since the pandemic.
This is a rather different landscape as we have a large hill to our right and the side of this is wooded for a great part – Wytham Woods is used by Oxford University for Ecological research and is connected with the Outdoor Centre that I support. The land adjoins and the later is able to use the edge of the woods for various activities. At another time in my past I used to visit a simple Woodman’s Cottage which was leased to the Guide Association for a peppercorn rent. Sadly now not used but this area of the wood was used for training of local regiments in the First World War and there are remains of trenches which are still used for educational purposes.
For a short distance after Swinford Lock our path coincides with the Oxford Greenbelt Way but quite quickly that diverts to the right along and around the wood whilst we stay on the river bank. The wood comes down to the edge in places so a more closed in terrain. We are then back in a more open area and farm land which is also linked with the university.
There has been an alert on the website that there may be a diversion along this stretch as work is being done to develop the link between the Thames and Seacourt Stream to ease the transition of fish from one to the other. There’s obviously some work taking place but no diversion and we ponder how you get fish to divert!! We have heard rumbling and traffic buzz for a while and as the Thames has changed direction once again we pass under the A34 as we travel south and it travels northward. We are very soon at Wolvercote Bridge and another classic pub The Trout. Remember taking a minibus full of children there one evening when staying at Hill End and having 15 lemonades in the garden! You could do a very good protracted pub crawl between Lechlade and Oxford – a thought for the future!!
Next to observe Godstow Abbey and Godstow Lock – a history board tells us more. We are now on the banks of the Thames as it moves towards the centre of Oxford. On the opposite bank is Port Meadow a vast area of common land where horses can be kept but are rounded up once a year by the Sheriff of Oxford. Also famous as part of the Thames that the author of Alice in Wonderland rowed along with three young girls, one of which was immortalised as Alice.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Meadow,_Oxford
https://uk.news.yahoo.com/annual-round-port-meadow-animals-040000732.html
The spires of Oxford can just be seen in the distance as can sailing boats. This area is full of activity, walkers, families picnicking, enjoying the water. Never before have I seen this area looking so dry and the water so low. There is often flooding on the Meadow itself and this can make walking across it tricky at some times in the year.
There is quite a gathering near the back way into another iconic pub – The Perch and on reflection this looks like an important social gathering. Some people have started waiting at the edge of the river and the we see why. A bride and groom are being transported down the river and she waves to us!
Next the edge of a boatyard, the sailing club and a very steep rounded bridge. The river moves away from us for a while and we are on a causeway between it and a cut through.We are on the edge of Fiddler’s Island and then we’re back by the river. This path floods often in the winter and there are warning signs at either end of this section. We are back on the top side of the river and we reach a section where a footpath leads off under the railway line to join the Oxford Canal Path. We are walking along the back of some terraced houses with back gates leading on to the path. A few sandbags indicate that they can be in a precarious situation at times. One person is filling a bucket from the river and watering plants in her yard. Are you allowed to do that?
Soon we see the bridge which takes the road over the Thames into the centre of Oxford. We exit here to find our lift home but we will be back next month.
25 km today. This was the first time the other two had walked for four consecutive days and they rightly felt quite pleased that they had achieved this.
Marion's 50 Walk Challenge 