Well today was the day of a rather epic walk and the reason I’d pushed myself in the previous walk. So again organised by SPR and this time I’ve spent the night at a rather attractive campsite which although reasonably basic, it did have hot showers. Took my own stove and kettle in a determination not only to have breakfast but also a hot cup of tea! An early start and a transfer down to Horton in Ribblesdale meant that we started walking at 06.57! From my tent I could see our first destination Pen Y Ghent.
So the plan for the day was to complete the three peaks – Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough. One of the significant aspects of this walk is that they are not that close together. To help understand my commentary I’m going to put the map near the beginning.
The route did go back to the start but unfortunately my phone charge didn’t!
So having been dropped off in the village we set off towards our first peak. A very short section of flat and then it started to go gently up hill and after not long, not so gently. So we were set on a steady climb with the distinct shape of this first top approaching us. Conscious of the fact that I had got rather shorter legs than my companions I did decide to get one stick out as the angle of ascent steepened.
As you approach the shoulder the ground becomes more rocky and loose and you have to step more carefully. Even though we set off quite early there were a couple of teams of people in front of us – I suggest teams rather than groups as they were wearing named tee shirts and obviously walking to raise funds for a charity. The photo shows quite well the extreme steepness of the final part of the peak and this was basically a bit of a scramble up, well it was for me, although there were some reasonably obvious routes. Definitely a hands and feet task.
So we reached the first summit at 8.30 ish, pleased to have ticked off one but knowing that there was so much more to come. The exit path led off through a squeeze stile in a wall and we followed a well defined track. In places this track had been slabbed or gravelled – this is a very high use areas with a prevalence to wet weather. Erosion can be a real concern and whilst purists might disagree with some of these paths there is a balance to be achieved. We had reached 694 metres and this was the lowest of the three- luckily the way down was more gradual but very long. In preparation I had taken note at this section so knew it would take a while. Part of this long path down coincided with the Penine Way.
I was keeping an eye on our speed and although I had slowed the group down going up I was pleased that we were able to pick up speed on this descent. At the top we had met three ladies having a snack, two had completed the route before and for one it was her first time- this gave me a bit of optimism.
The path takes a long route down over grassy moorland and looking back our first ascent soon seems a distant past. It takes a while before the next peak comes into view. We really have got a long stretch to cover and so are careful about snacking and drinking- I do seem to be the only one that has properly pre planned my food and brought it with me!
At long last we can see the viaduct that dominates the valley where the Carlisle to Settle railway cuts through the landscape. We stopped for a lunch break about 3hours and 15 minutes after our first peak. We managed to sit by a small river near a road junction where there was also a lay-by and even an ice cream van – not for us though; although one or two people on our trail did partake.
Some people just come to visit this impressive piece of engineering and there is a path that runs underneath, however we curve away and walk parallel to the rail line. And walk and walk! A very gradual slope upwards in a valley below the huge massive of Whernside. After quite a while the path crosses the railway line and as we look back and along the track we are aware of more smaller viaducts. The track now starts to climb much more steeply- not in the same way as the first summit but a slow continuous increase in height. Several times it seems that we might reach the top but then eventually we do. Views are great but a bit of a massive lump of a mountain. Just 15 minutes short of six hours since we were at the top of the first peak. from the top stretch we can look down and see the viaduct and the route of the path we have just taken.
After a stretch on top which was quite ‘relaxing’, the next section was a nightmare. A really steep descent which they had ‘helpfully’ laid huge irregular boulders into the path to stop erosion. Whilst the two men stride down this quite easily, for me it was the toughest section and the one place I felt a little defeated. Whilst the other two were in front and did wait I managed to diffuse my anxiety by talking to another group who were coming down with a couple of dogs. Sometimes short legs really aren’t helpful! Eventually the path still descending does become much easier and we can pick up a bit of speed again. Ingleborough does look a long way off though!
We are due to meet Jane our driver at the intersection of the road the other side of the block of trees. We are amuse to see a group of army cadets starting to pitch camp at a farm near the road. Some are still arriving with large packs and we muse as to where they have been as we had seen what must have been the same group right at the start of our day.
Jane has some spare water for us and we swop drink containers. She was also my way out if needed but there is no way I’m bailing at this point. After a hundred metres along the road we turn into some fields and start climbing up wards. The path soon levels out and we are walking next to a limestone escarpment. At long last a rock where I can have a ‘wild wee’, thought I was never going to find anywhere! The path continues along across some quite boggy patches which have duck boards across them.
The route up the summit is to the left of a bowl which was nearly vertical and would take us up onto the top on the left side of the summit section.
Near the base it became apparent that the actual path zigzagged steeply up the side. In front of us we could see two people sitting at the base of this section, they seemed to be taking a long break. They did eventually set off and then it was our turn! Really just a matter of keep clambering up, mostly walking but definitely needing to use hands for a bit more leverage. Having got to the top of this section there was a right hand turn to the right to continue upwards to the summit plateau. Again scrambling up through rocks. We were able to see our descent path off to our left which was quite helpful. Unlike the other peaks this does have a truncated top which is a very wide rocky plateau, slightly higher at the far end, marked by the trig point.
Just over 11 hours since we set off before we reached the top. We saw the couple who had gone up before us having another snack and met a group coming down so no one to take the photo this time! Oh and we had seen someone running down our ascent route!
The chances of getting back to the start point in less than an hour was unfeasible, to meet the twelve hour challenge, but finishing was a possibility or rather a necessity! So unlike the other two we had to start by backtracking across the plateau and then back down to the start of the spur off the summit. Here we found our descent path. The path was very distinct and luckily had no odd shaped boulders, although it was still rather rocky and uneven.
I realised the other couple were close behind us and spoke to them. It turned out that they had set off half an hour before us, which made me feel better. We knew from looking at the map that this last section was about six miles and it did begin to feel like it!
It was soon time to look back to our last summit and eventually get back to Horton in Ribblesdale. Total time 13.5 hours.
Too late to order food from the pub so it was a quick trip to Settle for take away Fish and Chips! Drove past the couple we’d just met as we drove towards supper. A friendly wave – I like that attitude that you come across in mountains.
So the deed was done. I had completed the route, not quite as fast as I’d hoped but I was pleased with my perseverance and the fact that although a little tired I didn’t actually ache. I did sleep well though – even in a tent!
Marion's 50 Walk Challenge 