So still in Sarajevo and again covered about 6km but a very varied day with many stop off points so definitely walking for a purpose rather than the purpose just being the walk!
During the last Balkan War, Sarajevo was under siege for four years, often lacking in water, electricity and food supplies. Being surrounded by mountains it was in direct line of fire from missiles and snipers from the Serbian forces. They had no means of getting injured out of the city or supplies in – until they built a tunnel. This led from a house in the outskirts and ran under the airport runway to an area further outside the city. So our first stop was the section of the tunnel that has been maintained and the museum. In this part of the city you are very aware of billet holes and damage from shelling.
It is emphasised that this tunnel symbolises hope and life. Many people supported others they probably did not know and risked their lives due to a determination to continue to live.
We returned towards the city in the Taxi and asked to be dropped at the National Museum. This gave us an insight into the more ancient city and the time when it was part of the Roman Empire – the area nearest the coast – now Croatia – was called Dalmatia, hence still referred to as the Dalmatian Coast. Some interesting objects and information plus a small botanic garden and a temporary exhibition of photographs from war areas. This included Northern Ireland, the Balkans, Cambodia and a postscript on Ukraine. This included the most moving letter written to the people of Ukraine.
For the next part of the adventure, Jackie and I caught a tram towards the city, eventually sorting out how to pay for the experience and managed to get off, with the help of a local, almost next to the Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand Museum. A quite iconic story involving dissidents, a bomb/ grenade being thrown back out of the royal car by the Duke before carrying on to his meeting. He had hoped to visit his now injured translator in hospital but couldn’t make his Czech driver understand so returned on the pre planned route, where the assign lay in wait. Shots kill the Duke, his wife Sophia and their driver – two months later the first world war started.
After a quick lunch we choose to walk to the ‘Museum of crimes Against Humanity & Genocide 1992 – 1995’.
A well put together exhibition, with many interesting stories and artefacts, a slightly gruelling experience but one that went just a little further in trying to piece together an understanding of the situation. The map showing the different religious preferences in each country was also helpful.
Improvisation was obviously very important at this time, even when food parcels were dropped. Food also features in this sculpture, made entirely of bread!
Now for some more restful ventures. Firstly the Catholic Cathedral and then into an area developed during the time of the Austro Hungarian Empire. Here as well as seeing some magnificent architecture, we also saw the Eternal Flame, the City Market and then the open air market. We spotted the concert hall and then walked passed the Bosniak Institute. Bosniaks is the name given to the Bosnian Muslims. Time for a drink!
Our next stop was the Serbian Orthodox Church. As we entered we could here chanting and singing -male. After a while the doors through to the altar opened and the priest emerged swinging an incense burner. There was something calming and mesmerising standing there observing the highly painted frescos that covered the ceiling and walls.
Time to walk back through the length of the old city – many of the streets are named after the craftsmen that worked in the area. We are looking for the copper ware street that we were taken to the day before. It proves harder to find than we initially thought – we did find the street of book binders on the way! After eventually finding the street amongst a maze of small lanes it was time to walk back passed the ‘Sebilj’, the correct name for the water fountain. Then back up the long hill to our hotel. The one advantage is that the view back to the city is good! Quite a full day but very worthwhile.
Oh, and a restaurant with a view over the city for our evening meal and a rather splendid sunset.
Marion's 50 Walk Challenge 