Today was to be the last real walk in Madeira and definitely the most challenging. Views on websites and in publicity are the types of thing that can fill you with wondrous expectation or trepidation!
I guess my inner fear was that I wouldn’t be able to achieve the demands of this trek. I knew once upon a time it would have been well within my capabilities but that was then and now with new hips and considerably more years, could I meet the demands.
I will make no apology for using photos from other people in the group to try and capture the experience and our joint venture – it will soon become apparent that this is out of necessity.
The day started sunny as usual as we left Funchal and drove very steeply up into the mountains behind the city – so many hair pin bends – we painfully followed a small truck for quite a few miles or perhaps I should say kilometres! No further to go and we arrive at a parking space with a shop and a cafe.
There had been much discussion as to what to take. I held out with my waterproof and a fleece in my bag- there was no way that I would walk at around 6000 feet with any less. Before we had even set off the mizzle had started!
We set off with Bennie assuring us that the Basalt slates were not slippery! Certainly not my instinctive thought. We were first to aim for the peak of the second highest mountain which was close to our start. I was carrying two sticks but lent one out- with the fences as well I decided one would be sufficient.
Our path undulated and quite soon we came to a section with a path with very steep drops on either side and then steps upwards. Quite an initiation – not too daunting in the rainy mist!
The path began to drop down steeply and we would loose about 1000 feet before we started to climb up that and more to the summit of the highest peek.
Every now and again it was possible to capture a large rock formation formed when the volcano spewed out larva and to try and guess what was below- a sense of nothing much to our sides helped to convey the height we were at.
There were a few moments when we thought the rain might ease – we had stopped pretending it was a bit of cloud! The natural ground was personally easier to walk on than the beautifully laid path.
Glimpses of flora and fauna lighten our path and the odd interesting rock formation. A short tunnel cuts through a section of rock and we are for a while on a flatter section. And a coffee stop! Rather interesting finding a good toilet stop in this type of locality. Pasteis de nata – our reward today ( very yummy custard tarts).
Whilst we are taking a refreshment break another large group arrives at our plateau, with a guide on a day trip. At a glance we were better equipped than most.
It is difficult to know exactly which aspects of this walk gives it’s name to the ‘Balcony Walk’. I think we next went through another tunnel but I can’t be sure. Rain and hoods to add to lack of clarity.
We know that there had been some reorganisation of the path due to landslides and that we would soon come across the metal ladders. Apparently the area was surveyed with drones and these were thought to be the ideal solution- not a favourite with the guides.
There were four metal ladders in total – I think. The one above had rocks jammed under neath it but there was one that just seemed to hang off the edge of the mountain, which you could see through to vast chasms of nothing! And one had very high steps – quite a challenge. I was very grateful to have Keef and Thea as back markets behind me – I think I might have struggled if I had been right at the back on this section.
After quite a struggle and continuous rain we rejoined the old original path which wove it’s way to the top of the highest peak – we’ll eventually! A much more pleasant path, more natural and with a gentler ascent.
The path wound it’s way upwards with that inevitable situation of thinking you’re about to reach the rocky outcrop of the peak, only to see another section behind and higher. The path takes us to a flat area with a little hut. After a very short stop and some of us eating a quick snack it is decided to head for the summit before lunch, even though by now it is quite late. Apparently we will be up and back within the hour!
A useful board helps illustrate our huge descent and subsequent final ascent.
Then we were at the summit – about 6100 feet. There are viewing platforms in several directions but to no avail. So it was photo time before descending to the hut.
Ironically as I’m having my photo taken I’m squinting as the sun is trying to shine through – it doesn’t make it!!! Next stop lunch and a welcome mint tea.
We still have to descend, some of it very steeply. Not such a long section as we thought it would be but in parts still rather challenging.
Reflection – this was an amazing walk and although the weather was terrible it was I think enjoyed by all of us. It was challenging but I did feel quite a sense of achievement as it was only 5.5 months since my second hip was replaced. It was amazing to be back on top of a mountain.
This walk was between 10/11 kilometres, my Fitbit recorded 205 floors! Thank you to all my walking companions for the week. To Geoff ( who only did a small part of this walk due to his knees), Eileen, Charlotte, Ruth, Paul, Alan, Dan ( the obligatory American! ), Keef, Thea, Liz and of course Benny our guide. They all contributed to the overall enjoyment and camaraderie of these walks.
Madeira is great and I will return – some many trails still to do.
Marion's 50 Walk Challenge 