A walk in one of my favourite places today – Oxford. Starting in the City Centre but a strong water theme again. Covered a total of 18km so one of my longer walks. No apologies for lots of pictures – too beautiful not to!
My Fitbit map has a chunk missing – definitely mind of its own – so thought I’d put in the map from 50 walks in Oxfordshire, which I used as a guide.
I decided to catch the train to Oxford as traffic at the moment is really bad – so my walk started and ended just to the west of this map at the station.
Even at the start I can look up and see interesting shapes against the skyline. Then further along as I turn towards Christ Church College I can see the Saxon Tower of St. Michael, the oldest building in Oxford. Once the road would have been filled with timber framed buildings.
I arrive at Carfax, the official start of the walk and a real cross roads – the meeting of four distinct streets. This is where Charles 2nd was proclaimed King in 1660.
The route now goes down St Aldates and ‘Tom Tower’ can be seen – part of the impressive entrance into Christ Church College, the largest of all colleges, founded in 1525. The cathedral is an integral part of this complex. It also includes an impressive stone staircase used in the filming of ‘Harry Potter’. The dining room also includes a window dedicated to Lewis Carroll- of Alice in Wonderland fame. This is somewhere I have often taken adults and children when visiting as part of Erasmus projects or those coming from Uganda.
The entrance into the grounds is passed this splendid entrance and there is a wonderful view of a memorial garden – always colourful, before the main college building is revealed. The route turns down the New Walk to the River Thames.
The path curves away from the Thames and runs next to the River Cherwell, all the time keeping Christ Church Meadow on the left. The college can be viewed across, and as the path nears its end Merton College comes into view. Much of the grounds are bordered by the old city wall and an interesting plaque can be viewed. The path leaves the quiet surroundings to emerge next to the Botanic Gardens.
At one point in my life I visited the gardens quite a lot – for my BEd year, when I initially trained, my special tutor for the ‘applied plant science’ part of my degree was the curator of the gardens. It was such a privilege.
The path comes out onto a busy street by Magdalen College, the gardens can just be seen through an arch on the opposite side of the road. Over the bridge are punts waiting to be hired. In the middle of the road, the Plain, is a Victorian fountain.
This is a busy intersection of three roads leading into one. Each of these leads to a very different part of Oxford and my route takes me along the left of these. I’d driven this in the past but never walked and I realise why it’s called St. Clements when I walk passed the similarly named church!
The road splits opposite South Parks, one of the many green spaces in Oxford. At the intersection is Headington Park, this was part of the estate belonging to Headington Hill House and Robert Maxwell, father of Ghislane Maxwell.
The College of Islamic Studies on my left is surrounded by impressive walls and gates and although a glimpse of the minarets and mosque tower can just be seen there are no photographic opportunities. The footpath cuts down with a sign indicating sports grounds. Each college have these immaculate and impressive areas. A small bridge is reached and the path leads between two stretches of water. The Cherwell and a mill stream. This is called Mesopotamia – somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit. (From the Greek – between rivers)
The path emerges onto a cycle track at the edge of University Parks – somewhere I also associate with my degree year. To begin with I go slightly wrong and find the rollers, this is where punts have to be dragged across if wishing to continue down towards Magdalen Bridge. In the past this corner also housed ‘Parson’s Pleasure’ – a male nudist area, which could be seen from the river!!
University Park has beautiful trees and also a cricket ground plus a seat commemorating Tolkien – ‘The Hobbit’ & ‘ Lord of the Rings’.
The path crosses a high arched bridge and heads down a well laid path which is obviously a popular running route. This weaves around more sports fields and across meadows and follows a Brook. After a bit of a hiccup of navigation – making assumptions rather than really studying the map!!! – I finally recrossed the busy Cherwell Drive again, not helped by two schools finishing as I arrived at the area. After the contrast of this busy area the path leads into Old Marston. Somewhere I’ve never been before, many stone houses and walls – perhaps another quarry here.
One house is called Cromwell’s House and there is an interesting Blue Plaque. During the Civil War, Oxford was the royalist headquarters for much of the war.
The path heads off across fields, back towards the River Cherwell and the Victoria Arms pub. There is a buzz of traffic noise from the A40 at this point.
Time for an orange juice and soda and a loo stop at the pub! This is a popular place to stop with your punt and whilst I sat there at least three boats pulled up. Quite a long time since I’d been at the pub by that route!
Refreshed I walk not quite beside the river although there are cleared areas, often used for picnic stops! Also a good place to spot swans- this time an adult plus four well developed cygnets.
I’m aware of a loud chattering sound and many voices. Cherwell Boat House is revealed on the opposite bank. My preferred place to hire a boat! There is a restaurant and a marquee also used for wedding receptions – last time I attended one, the bride and groom were punted away at the end of the evening!
The path leads by a Natute Reserve belonging to one of the colleges and several on the city side of the river have private boat houses. Just before reaching the bridge again and the park there is a view looking great in the sunshine.
The track comes out of the park onto St Cross Road which is the corner of the science area. I’m taken back to that time so many years ago when I had to create my own course and invite myself to lectures and seminars at the Departments of Botany, Forestry and Virology and I had a ticket to the Science section of the Bodlein Library.!
As this long road travels towards the High Street there is a small church, no longer functioning – but I liked the door.
Along this road there is a plaque commemorating four men who were killed for not being Catholic. In another street there is a memorial for Martyrs who were killed because they wouldn’t give up their Catholic faith!!
There is also the garage where William Morris started building cars before factories were developed in Cowley.
Out on to the High Street and queues of traffic and yet more sunshine- this has got to have been one of the best Septembers for a long time.
Opposite is the Examination School where I had to go for my exams way back! We had to dress in a specified way to go inside! A bit awe inspiring, I visited a couple of years ago.
The route suggests turning up Queens Lane which winds between tall walls and conceals New College. There are some interesting views and it is worth looking up.
There’s a wonderful pub The Turf Tavern also hidden behind these walls. Around a corner and one of the most iconic views comes into sight. Quite noisy and then I see that a degree ceremony had just finished. The Bridge of Sighs is awesome in the sunlight.
Behind this Bridge and the venue for the ceremony is the Sheldonian Theatre. Again a special place, not only architecturally, but I was so fortunate that I received both my degrees, twenty years apart in this venue. Great view from the top as well !
Round the corner is the Radcliffe Camera, a reading library, plus the University Church – again a great view from the top. As you round the Radcliffe Camera part of the Bodlein library can be seen – one of the oldest and most extensive libraries in the world. At the side is Braesnose College and the corner of the gardens of Exeter College.
Highlight – this has to be one of my all time favourite places – somewhere I never tire of seeing, especially when the sun is shining. This part of Oxford has always featured in the many tours I’ve led when overseas visitors came to school.
The suggested route goes down Braesnose Lane, out on to Turl Street and then on to Broad Street.
Here Balliol College can be seen and also a new initiative for this year which is areas of lawns and seating put out for the summer. There are also more outside cafe seats.
It will be interesting to see the adjustments that will need to be made for the Art and Craft and Christmas markets and other events that use this street.
Time to go back down to the station. Oxford is quite busy, perhaps not to it’s usual capacity but it does seem very alive.
Reflection – it seemed really important to do another walk which included Oxford. It has been a special place since I came to study near here over 50 years ago. Until the previous walk I had not been to Oxford since before the pandemic started – really strange considering my past associations. The walk today was rewarding as I visited some new places and caught up with some more familiar ones. It felt a bit like the old friend you meet and you start conversing as if you had never been apart.
Marion's 50 Walk Challenge 