We started the day with a visit to ‘The Italian Chapel’ – a rather special place. Created by prisoners of war, during World War 2, from two Nissan huts. All the decor and ornate facade was developed by the captured Italian’s , some of whom were craftsmen back home. It’s situated on a tiny island linked to the mainland by one of the Churchill barriers which was formed as a defence during the war and was also also built by the Italians.
Highlight and reflection – standing by the Italian Chapel and looking out over Scapa Flow it was strange to think that my Grandpa, Charles Frederick McCulloch, was station here just over 100 years ago. He was a Chief Petty Officer in the Navy and spent time there both during the battle of Jutland and in 1919 when the German fleet was captured and held there. As a child he showed me photos he had taken of the fleet and then the next morning when the German commanding officer had order for the fleet to be scuppered and there was nothing there! Handing over his ships to the British and French was obviously an ask too much.
To start our walk proper we drove to Deerness on the easterly point of the Mainland Isle. This was quite a different environment and as we set off there was some trepidation with the weather – much windier than on other days – partly due to the exposed locality.
Our first stop was at the Gloop, an inlet surrounded by steep cliffs – quiet today but could easily be a site of turbulence.
Again wonderful craggy cliffs with their array of colours and sea birds flying in and out to feed still hungry chicks. Balls of fluffy Fulmer chicks were easy to spot.
Leaving cultivated fields behind there was soon a change to moorland with the now familiar ‘Bell Heather’, Ling- Calluna vulgaris and the slightly pinker crossleaved heath.
We came a cross a sheltered bay where Vikings had once landed but unfortunately couldn’t visit the tiny chapel or mound shaped remains from their community as the narrow path had been shut due to a landslide.
More sea birds and chicks and a wonderful sunny spot for lunch with springy cushions supplied just where we wanted to sit! It was hard to believe our luck with the weather.
After lunch we had a brisk walk to a large monument which was erected to commemorate some Scottish Covenanters. These were Protestants at the time of Charles 1 -their beliefs and practises did not fit with the requirements of the day.
Firstly after arrest they were kept in jail in Edinburgh, the decision was then made to ship them to America for penal servitude. Unluckily there ship was wrecked off this edge of Orkney – little was done to save them. Those that did survive were recaptured and taken to Jamaica as slaves.
Reflection – we are so lucky to be able to have freedom to walk in such wonderful places and to hold our beliefs, mostly without persecution.
Reflection – look at the amazing structure of this wild Angelica.
Final walk on Orkney -about 12 km today. Thank you to Lynn, Bill, Anne, Donald, Caroline and Simon for your company whilst walking. To Nigel our leader and to Sue who missed most of the walks as she needs a hip replacement – I feel your pain. Good luck.
Marion's 50 Walk Challenge 